North Yorkshire Moors

Lastingham has a church built over a remarkably intact Norman crypt, unique in Britain in having both a nave and side aisles. Intended to be an abbey that was never finished, it has survived pretty much in this state since 1068, with supporting columns bearing capitals carved with depictions of ram's heads.

Carry on west to Hutton-le-Hole, an enchanting spot with a stream flowing down the middle of the green in the centre of the village. Sheep wander around oblivious to visitors. The excellent Ryedale Folk Museum is practically village in itself and is made up of a collection of buildings from the area that have been saved and re-erected: they include a gypsy caravan, an Edwardian photographic studio and workshops, and there are craft demonstrations. The friendly Crown does generous food.

Before returning to the A170 and Helmsley, it is well worth taking the road north up Blakey Ridge, high above Farndale (the valley where Wordsworth famously saw that host of gold golden daffodils that inspired one of most famous poems in the English-language) to the ancient wayside crosses known as Ralph Crosses and White Cross, high on the heather moorland.