Ski resorts don’t come much prettier than Zermatt and, with the Matterhorn as its backdrop, this traditional Alpine town is picture perfect.
The main street is a chic affair. Beautiful old wooden and stone buildings house everything you could want from a museum to supermarkets, ski hire shops to bars and hotels. Glamorous Europeans float past in fur coats and Prada sunglasses, locals buy their groceries and skiiers head for the apres ski bars. It's a proper, functioning little town, all done in the best possible taste.
There's no denying that Zermatt is an expensive resort and attracts its fair share of Old Money but it's an unpretentious, friendly crowd with a play hard, ski hard attitude. Come 5 o'clock the bars are rammed with goggle marks and ski jackets getting stuck into the apres-ski gluviens but, despite an impressive number of shots being done by one party in their 60s, I'd put my Swiss francs on them being first on the slopes the next morning.
Where to go out:
Head straight from the pistes to the busy Papperla Pub for live bands and dancing in ski boots.
After dinner things quieten down but Hotel Post has several bars and restaurants to hang out in and for dancing head for the T-Bar at the Hotel Pollux.
The skiing
Zermatt has a lot going for it whether you're new to the slopes or a kamikaze off-pister. The resort is surrounded by 29 peaks over 4000 meters, the highest mountains in Europe, and the skiing is every bit as spectacular as you'd expect.
It has a long season running from late November to early May with summer skiing on the glacier. The pistes never seem crowded, the views are stunning and the skiing is exceptional. We found getting around the ski areas pretty easy with fast, interlinking lift systems and virtually no queues.
There are 3 key ski areas: Schwarzsee Paradise/Matterhorn Paradise, Gornergrat and Rothorn:
Schwarzsee Paradise/Matterhorn Paradise
The Schwarzsee Paradise Area on the lower slopes is great for beginners and early intermediates but if you're looking for a bit of a challenge, impressive views and some of the longest runs in Europe head for the Klein Matterhorn.
The tunnel from one side of the mountain to the other.
Getting up there is exhilarating stuff. The Matterhorn Glacier cable car is the highest in Europe, it glides over acres of ice and up the sheer rock face to a tunnel bored right through the very peak of the toblerone-shaped mountain. Standing at 3883 meters with a 360 degree panoramic view over Switzerland, Italy and France I felt as if I'd arrived on top of the world.
From the top you can drop down one side of the mountain into Cevinia in Italy or down a fabulous 13km run all the way down into Zermatt village.
High winds had closed the pass over to Cevina the day we were there so we jumped on the mother of all runs down into Zermatt. Huge barren glacier pistes lead into narrow tree-lined runs and out onto mogul fields. We carved our way around the foot of the Matterhorn, past frozen lakes, pretty bars and some of the most photogenic scenery I've ever seen back down to the village. It's one of Zermatt's finest runs but be warned, it can get very cold and windy at the top so check the forecast and go prepared.
Take the Gornergrat train to the top.
Gornergrat
Getting up to the top of the Gornergrat ski area is all part of the fun. Jump on the Gornergrat cog railway and grab a seat on the right for fabulous views of the Matterhorn and the glaciers.
After a 30 minute train ride to the top there's great skiing to be had with long, fast pistes. Head for piste 29, a fun, cruisey red with good gradients and a short black run branching off it which is perfect for intermediates (like me) to build up the confidence to tackle some of the longer blacks.
Rothorn Paradise and Sunnegga
Rothorn and Sunnegga are great for all levels but particularly if you're an advanced skier. The most challenging piste in Zermatt is the black Swiss National Run (number 8 on the piste map). Starting at Blauherd its a long, steep, fast run and definitely not for the feint-hearted.
The 'itinerary runs' marked in yellow on the piste map are ungroomed pistes so you never quite know what conditions you're going to find up there. You need to be comfortable on black runs to give these a go - be prepared for the ride of your life.
Eating on the mountain:
Eating on the mountain is an expensive business but there are some beautiful restaurants in dreamy settings which make the high prices just about worth it. Our favourite was the wooden Findlerhof nestled in the Findeln hamlet with stunning views, great food and a roof top bar with deck chairs and warming schnapps.
Getting there: From the top of the Sunnegga Express take piste 6 to Findeln. Leave your skis at the top and wander down the pretty pathway through the hamlet to the restaurant.
Costs: main courses start at £9.
Where to stay:
The fabulous Chalet Nepomuk offers luxury self-catering – fluffy duvets, sleek bathrooms and a modern kitchen. The piece de resistance is the sauna and the outdoor hot tub with pure, unadulterated views of the Matterhorn.
Seven nights in the four-room “Wohnung Breithorn” apartment in the 5* Chalet Nepomuk from £1,882 – or £313.67 per person based on six sharing. Visit www.interhome.co.uk or call 0208 780 6629 and quote CH3920.500.2
Lift passes:
Start at 55 Swiss Francs for half a day. Full list of passes and prices.
Getting there:
- Fly direct to Geneva - check flight times and prices
- Take the train from Geneva airport to Zermatt. Swiss Transfer Tickets start from £75 return. For more details visit www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk
