Nestled at the top of Val Gardena, in the heart of the Italian Dolomites, is the beautiful alpine village of Selva, one of the last places in Italy where the ancient language of Ladin is still spoken. My love of hiking, stunning mountain scenery, good food and culture brought me to this pristine and dramatic place and will remain in my memory as one of the most heavenly destinations I’ve visited in Europe.
By Kyley Chapman
Who needs Torres del Paine in Patagonia to hike when you’ve got the imposing coral boulders of the Dolomites surrounded by lunar-like plains and luminous green meadows to explore just a two hour flight away? Hiking and sightseeing opportunities here are endless and you could spend weeks exploring the region. However, if like me you only have a week to spare, here are some of the highlights to give you a taste of what’s on offer.
Walking
You can hike independently with a good map and all the usual precautions, but it’s easy to organise reasonably priced guided walks at the tourist office. Don’t worry about slow coaches on the walks or moaning Brits abroad. The groups consist of mixed nationalities - all keen walkers - in fact both my partner and I were the only two Brits. Most of the other tourists were Italian and incredibly friendly and even if the guide can’t speak fluent English, someone in the group is bound to.
Most walks will involve a gondola or chairlift. Three and six day passes are cheaper than in ski season and perfect for getting right up high for spectacular mountain views even if you don’t fancy walking anywhere. Our favourite guided walk was via the Danterceppies chairlift, a medium level 6 hour walk which covers 18km. En route via the chairlift we spotted the elegant chamois (wild mountain goat) and chubby, cuddly looking marmot. This walk begins at 2298m and peaks at 2528m. Easy does it to begin with. We started off on an easy footpath via Jimmy’s hut, a popular landmark in the area and then slowly ascended until we reached the Cierjoch mountain pass. Here, the lunar-like landscape is dramatically different from the verdant meadows not so far below.
We admired the steep scree rocky slopes embellished with occasional clusters of purple, yellow and pink alpine flowers. We descended, then ascended again into a neighbouring valley and then the fog came down. A wide path narrowed and although most of the group were disappointed that the fog had covered the view, I was secretly relieved as the drop to the side of the path was tremendous. Hollow breaks in the mystical cloud spontaneously revealed the majestic vista albeit for seconds at a time and that was enough for me.
There’s more than just the view to look at – the footpaths are carpeted with hundreds of fossils and there’s plenty of happy sheep grazing on the mountain to say hello to. Poez hut at the top of the mountain is the ideal place to stop and fill up on goulasch soup and in my case some courage as there was still some walking along the shelf of the mountain to be done before descending into meadow. Once we were refuelled and back on the path the fog lifted and the ascent began. It’s amazing how diverse the scenery can be on one walk in a relatively small area. After the steep scree slopes begins the Alpine woodland, which then blends into the Langenthal which in comparison to the previous paths is a walk in the park. Looking back behind us, we could see the mountain valleys we’d trodden in the distance.
Other things to do in Val Gardena
There are so many walks to do in the area that you’ll be spoilt for choice, but do take time out to explore Selva’s lovely neighbours.
St. Christina is a tiny village with typical mountain farms whereas Ortisei is a quaint and lively town with a pedestrian only centre and steeped in rich history. Look out for the hornblowers and make sure you pop into café demetz gelateria for the best ice-cream you’ll have on your trip.
Ladin culture
Selva is an excellent base to not only explore Val Gardena but also neighbouring Alta Badia. It’s in Alta Badia where you can see the proud Ladin culture at its most prominent. The white, green and blue Ladin flag can be seen everywhere in the clouds, grass and sky. Ladin is spoken by only 30,000 people and the ancient traditions are still part of modern day life. Bread is still made every six weeks the same way as it was years ago, woodcarving is of great importance, small farm-based communities live a gentle lifestyle and property is handed down to the son or daughter only and not sold outside of the family.
One of my highlights whilst exploring the Ladin culture was the walking tour to the oldest Ladin farmhouse Alfarëi in the region dating back to at least 1400. A gentle stroll took us through working farms via several old wooden barns and the important residence of Saint Giuseppe Frenademetz the regional famous Saint. All of the barns have typical crossed beams, carved ventilation holes, engraved circles to ward off witches and inscriptions on the walls.
On arrival at Alfarëi, we are sat down to a delicious typical Ladin lunch and the earthiest spring water I’ve ever tasted. On this guided tour, once again we were the only Brits in a large group of Italians. All the Italians were warm and friendly and for a moment I thought there was going to be an argument over our company as several Italians insisted we sit with them. We sadly had to leave the barn early to catch our bus back to Val Gardena and were serenaded goodbye by the entire group. Our tour guide Emanuela was fantastic and translated everything for us throughout the entire tour including the goodbye song.
Another must-see in Alta Badia is the Church of the Cross. Situated at the top of the valley, you’ll need to take two chair lifts to the get to the pristine landmark which blends into the mountain. Again, magnificent walking trails are everywhere and we met a fair few climbers heading up the mountain. Skip one of the chairlifts back and enjoy crossing the purple and yellow flower-filled meadow along with the butterflies, grasshoppers and dragon flies. There are several places to stop and eat so if you’re not planning to hike, don’t worry about taking a packed lunch.
Other things to do in Alta Badia
Other places that you should visit if you have time in Alta Badia include The Ladin Museum at Castle Tor and the stunning villages of Colfosco and Corvora.
Alta Badia is also a favourite with worldwide A-list celebrities. Tom Cruise with Katie Holmes and daughter Surie favour the Hotel Rosa Alpina and Hotel La Perla as does George Clooney, so you'll be in good company.
Getting there and away with Crystal Lakes and Mountains
Whatever you decide to do in Val Gardena and Alta Badia, you’ll have a wonderful time. Don’t forget to pack your wet weather gear as the elements in the mountains change in a matter of moments. If you don’t fancy long hikes, that’s OK too. There’s plenty to do at a gentle pace and lots of organised excursions. We travelled with Crystal Lakes and Mountains who give you the option of independence or a trip that’s more organised. Find out more…
