St Vincent and the Grenadines

Adventure, relaxation, pristine beaches, diving, nature and culture - it's the Caribbean but not as you know it.

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Your very own treasure island

St Vincent and the Grenadines is one of the world's best kept secrets. Virtually untouched by tourism, the islands' natural beauty and culture remains how the Caribbean used to be 20 years ago. The beaches, culture, nature and sunshine are all fabulous but it's not just the natural beauty of the islands which make St Vincent and the Grenadines so special, it's the Vincentians themselves. You can't fail to be charmed by their warmth, hospitality and genuine pride in their country.

Exploring St Vincent

The best way to experience St Vincent is to get on the road with a guide. There are two sides to St Vincent, the Windward (East coast) and Leeward (Atlantic coast).

We headed north from the capital of Kingstown up the precipitous coastal road on the Leeward side. The journey is a stunning rollercoaster ride which climbs its way up and down the steep valley sides. From the top stretches lush, green tropical forests leading down to glinting black volcanic sand beaches far below us and miles and miles of sparkling Caribbean sea.

"What goes up must come down", shouts Herbin, my Vincentian guide and in-car entertainment, just as we wind our way up the last hairpin bend before hurtling down into the next beautiful, lush valley. Spread out along the foot of the valleys lie picturesque, brightly coloured houses which climb up the valley sides, perched precariously on stilts, nestling amongst the palm trees.

The beaches

Once outside of Kingstown the island is virtually untouched by tourism and so St Vincent retains its natural beauty, culture and heritage. We took our Leeward trip on a Sunday and, instead of coming across gates to huge luxury hotels with infinity pools and private beaches, we found bouncing, pot-holed roads leading down to glistening black sandy beaches full of locals swimming and listening to calypso, rum punches in hand. I chatted to the women cooking up yam, plantain and breadfruit stews with coconut dumplings over driftwood fires. Vincentians are generous to a fault and you'll always be invited to join them and share their food.

A word of warning though, unless you've got asbestos feet don't attempt to walk across black sand without flip-flops. I learnt this to my cost when a casual stroll down to the sea quickly turned into a very unique hopping-leaping-speed-walk.

Dark View Falls

Further up the coast is Dark View Falls, a waterfall set deep in the forest of Richmond Valley. Getting to the waterfall requires walking across a rather precarious swaying bridge made from enormous bamboo stems loosely lashed together. The torrential downpour we'd just had turned the bamboo stems into greasy poles which took some fairly precise footwork and a tight grip on the hand rails to get over. But, once on the other side, I found myself surrounded by huge, 15 foot tall bamboo shoots towering over me, bending in to form an incredible natural cavern.

The waterfall is stunning with a natural pool to cool off in at the bottom. It's worth the journey although in peak season it gets very busy so go early if you want the falls to yourself.

The Pirates of the Caribbean

After a white-knuckle ride we swung off the main road and down a steep, narrow tree-lined track. We slowly inched our way round the sharp corner at the bottom and were thrown into the swashbuckling land of The Pirates of the Caribbean.

There was Wallilabou, a stunning, quintessentially Caribbean bay and all around me was the set of Port Royal. There was the jetty where the Black Pearl was moored, the pub where they drank, the quayside with its shop fronts, houses and bars still with all the barrels piled up outside. As Hollywood sets go you dont get much better than this.

Have a drink in the tiny bar used in the film and you'll see a wall full of photos taken during the filming. It's not bad knowing that you're sitting where Johnny Depp and Orlando Bloom sat.

It's a perfect film set in a perfect bay and, in typical Vincentian style, it's very understated. You need to know where it is to find it, there's no entrance fee, no other tourists milling around, just a couple of locals in the bar and a yacht moored up for lunch in the bay.
See photos of the set

La Soufriere

Dominating the northern end of St Vincent is La Soufriere, a semi-active volcano, standing at 4048 feet above sea level. You'll need a moderate degree of fitness to get to the top but it's a must for anyone with a spark of adventure and a love of nature.

Millie and Clint Hazell are a charming Vincentian couple who set up HazEco tours 12 years ago to share St Vincent's stunning natural beauty with tourists in a responsible, eco-friendly way.

The two and a half hour hike up the volcano with them is the best way to get the most out of the climb and learn about the nature of the island. "The climb takes us through tropical forests, past bamboos the size of trees, getting steeper as we go", says Clint, "as we get higher the vegetation gets less until we get to the lava flow and from there it's just pebbles and gravel to the summit". The view from the top is breathtakingly spectacular and makes every last drop of sweat worth it.

But that's not all, "There's a much smaller second crater which a lot of Vincentians don't know about only fourty five minutes walk beyond the main crater", Clint tells me. "It's a natural mineral bath with about four feet of cold water and smooth, silky mud on the bottom". It's great to jump into after the climb and it's the best natural face pack you'll ever try.
Arrange your volcano climb, nature trails and off-road-adventures with www.hazecotours.com

Tobago Cays

St Vincent and the Grenadines is a nature-lover's paradise but the highlight has to be the Tobago Cays. Formed of five deserted islets in crystal clear waters surrounded by reefs teeming with tropical fish, turtles, dolphins and other wildlife, the Tobago Cays are soon to have World Heritage status. It's hard to imagine a more perfect setting for snorkelling and diving.

The Tobago Cays are only accessible by boat and it's worth doing it in style.

We were picked up by the Captain Yannis catamaran and, as luxury days go you don't get much better than this. The catamaran is huge with plenty of shade from the sun. The captain and staff are all friendly and chatty, dressed in immaculate white uniforms and very efficient at topping up my rum punch.

We sailed past idyllic islands, dropping anchor on sand bars and reefs for snorkelling on our way deep into the Cays.

We anchored up for a fabulous Caribbean buffet lunch of chicken, local fish, rice and salad. The time had come to get amongst the marine wildlife. I put on my snorkel and flippers and followed the captain into the clear, sandy-bottomed lagoon.

It was like jumping into a David Attenborough programme - beneath me were turtles drifting gently along, swaying with the currents, popping their heads up above the surface before diving back down below. Huge stingrays rippled past majestically (oh God, if it can happen to Steve Irwin it could happen to me), tropical fish milled around and, just when I

thought it couldn't get any better, the captain motioned for me to dive down to the bottom. As I did so a turtle dived down with me and the two of us drifted along, side by side, until my evolutionary disadvantage meant it was time to resurface.

We sailed slowly back past deserted white sandy beaches and towering, uninhabited islands to Palm Island, rum punch in hand, reggae playing on the catamaran, watching the sun set. It's the stuff that dreams are made of.

The Grenadines

Exploring St Vincent is an adventure in itself but beyond the mainland lie the Grenadine islands. All the islands offer fantastic beaches, diving and snorkelling but each one has its own distinct identity and culture.

Bequia

The best way to arrive in Bequia is by water into Admiralty Bay and, if you're lucky, you'll be accompanied by dolphins all the way. Bequia is where Vincy's go at the weekends to relax on the white sandy beaches and soak up the holiday atmosphere. I found the best way to get a feel for the island is to jump in an open-top taxi and let your driver show you his favourite parts of the island from the beaches to the sleepy villages and the capital of Port Elizabeth.

And then I discovered that it's possible to make a turtle laugh... There's only one place to learn the knack and that's at Bequia's Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary set up by the inimitable Brother King.

Perched on the edge of a dramatic beach lashed by Atlantic waves, Brother King's sanctuary is home to over 200 endangered Hawksbill turtles which he hand-rears until they're strong enough to be released back into the wild.

Having held a baby turtle and fed the big boys he then showed me the best bit of all - how to tickle a turtle. "Scratch its shell just behind its left fin", instructed Brother King, "you'll know when it's laughing because its fin starts slapping the water" he continued as I got soaked by my turtle's fin-flapping hysteria. Apparently long nails get best results.

Union Island

Union is a popular stop-off for yachts cruising around The Grenadines. The island has a unique charm of its own with its relatively bustling centre (don't miss the fabulous local jewellery shop with stunning handmade pieces by the owner's wife) and laid-back nature.

Nicole from Union's Tourist Office took us on a taxi tour of the island. As we gazed out over the headland with Chatham Bay beneath us Nicole said "I've fallen in love with my island all over again today". Even if you've lived there all your life it's impossible not to be swept away by the beauty of the nature around you.

Palm Island

The smart motor launch met me on quay at Union Island for the ten minute journey over to Palm Island. Waiting to welcome me at the end of the little wooden jetty was a waiter with a rum cocktail on a platter. Yup, that's what I thought too.

Palm Island is a private all-inclusive island resort which offers an escape from everything. "It's a place to kick back and relax", said Lisa an Australian guest, "and relaxing is contagious". And how right she was.

I normally can't wait to jump on a bike and explore my surroundings. Instead I lay on the pristine beach for a while before managing to walk a whole five minutes to the pool where I had a snooze until I was offered a cocktail after which I had another snooze. Oh and then it was time for a fabulous dinner, a few drinks and, well, off to bed to sleep again. The next morning I was fully ready to embrace another day of doing absolutely nothing in one of the world's most stunning surroundings.

If you feel the need for a bit of activity you can pick up one of the complementary bikes and cycle round the island, stopping off at any of the five white sand beaches for a dip or a little lie down in a hammock. For the ultimate luxury the restaurant will deliver a spectacular picnic lunch to you on one of the secluded beaches. You don't get much more romantic than that.

And as for the accommodation, my 'room' was a stunning, airy wooden cottage with a spacious veranda, huge bedroom and luxurious bathroom. Geckos basked on the grass in front of the cottage, the beach was a few seconds from my front door and the bar a short stroll away.
It's the ultimate in 'barefoot luxury' and it's fabulous.

Visit Palm Island's official website
Check prices and availability

It's the very charm of St Vincent and the Grenadines which will prevent it from becoming ruined by tourism. With no direct flights, winding cliff roads and protected natural landscapes the island will stay a world-class destination for adventurous travellers who want to get off the beaten track. The travel experience here will stay as it should be; adventurous, exciting, relaxing and cultural - far away from the faceless resorts of other islands which are nothing more than the UK in the sun. You'll never find English breakfasts on the menu here - only rotis, glasses of maubi and a truly fabulous Caribbean experience.

Other islands worth a visit:

Mustique
Mustique first hit the headlines in the 1960s as the playground for pop stars and royalty with Mick Jagger and Princess Margaret being its most famous visitors. Since then it's calmed down into a fabulous escape for celebs, yachties and anyone looking for a relaxed, peaceful holiday. If there's one thing you do on Mustique, make sure it's a visit to Basil's Bar. It's laid-back, cool and it's where everyone who's anyone hangs out.
www.basilsbar.com

Canouan

If the luxury and comfort of a world-class hotel is more your bag Raffles Resort on the small island of Canouan will fit the bill. The resort is set in 300 acres with a world-class golf course and three secluded white sand beaches surrounded by coral reefs. The 'rooms' are individual luxury villas dotted around the resort.
About Canouan
About Raffles Canouan

Where to stay on St Vincent:

Grenadine House
Style: A beautiful old colonial house with stylish decor, modern touches where you need them and a fabulous view over Kingstown.
If you're a foodie this is the place to stay in St Vincent and the Grenadines. The chef combines classic Caribbean dishes with a certain je ne sais quoi to produce intense flavours and some of the best dishes I've ever tasted. Make sure you chat to Walter, the hotel manager, everything that's fabulous about the hotel is just a reflection of him.
Grenadine House website

Young Island

Style: A private island resort and home to Johnny Depp, Orlando Bloom and Kiera Knightly whilst they filmed The Pirates of the Caribbean.

Have a drink in Oceans Allegra, the bar opposite Young Island, where Johnny Depp and the rest of the cast hung out during filming.
Young Island website

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