THIRSTY PICASSO
Q: We have a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso and have consistently experienced problems with regards to excessive fuel consumption. Do you know what we should get with regards to MPG? At the moment we have been achieving between 16mpg to 24mpg. We would like to know what the figures should be. Posted by: Mo
A: Fuel consumption will vary according to the type of use to which the vehicle is put, so if the car is used constantly for in-town, stop-start driving, it will use far more fuel than when cruising on the open road. In addition, if it is used mainly for short runs, during which the engine never has the opportunity to fully warm up to its optimum running temperature, again it will consume considerably more fuel.
Running with the vehicle heavily loaded will also have an adverse impact on the consumption figures.
Having said all that, the figures you quote do sound very excessive, regardless of which engine is fitted, although you do not say which power unit your Grand Picasso has. As a rough guide, a 1.6 or 2.0 litre petrol model should achieve approximately 25 mpg in town use, improving to around 45 mpg when cruising gently. Realistically an overall figure of over 35 mpg should be expected. The 1.6 litre HDi diesel models should return 40 mpg or so in urban running, giving up to 55 mpg or better when touring, and be capable of around 45 mpg in mixed real world everyday use.
It sounds as if your vehicle definitely has a fault. Unless the car has a serious fuel leak (this possibility needs to be investigated immediately for safety reasons), if the car is using that much fuel it is likely that the emissions levels will be very high (with legal implications), in addition to the vehicle running very uneconomically. It would be wise to take it to a Citroen dealer and get it checked very thoroughly under warranty. With the problem fixed and the engine running as designed you should save a huge amount of money, given today's high fuel prices.
CORSA GRINDING NOISES
Q: Recently the steering on my Vauxhall Corsa 1.5TD has been playing up. When turning right the front right wheel (driver's side) seems to make a periodic grinding noise - more noticeable and frequent at high speeds. Do you think this is due to wheel balance/alignment issues? Posted by: Doug Fletcher
A: It is difficult to precisely diagnose a problem of this nature without examining the vehicle. However, wheel balance/alignment problems would not normally result in the noise you mention. From your description it sounds as if the problem may be due to worn wheel bearings and/or worn brake pads/discs. The car needs to be checked immediately in case the brake pads are worn down to their backing plates, resulting in metal to metal contact and possible seizure under braking.
Another possibility is that a worn driveshaft joint is making the noise.
In any event the car needs to be checked right away to establish the cause of the trouble. If you are doing the work yourself the vehicle needs to be jacked and securely supported on axle stands, then the front wheels removed and the entire front suspension/steering/braking systems carefully examined.
Always renew brake components in axle sets; if the brake pads/disc on one side are worn, it is likely that those on the opposite side of the car will similarly be in need of replacement.
RELUCTANT MEGANE
Q: My 1.4 litre petrol-powered Renault Megane ('S' registration) is difficult to start from cold. Any suggestions please? Posted by: Mairi Mackenzie
A: Commence by ensuring that the battery is in a serviceable state, and that the main battery leads are in good condition. The battery lead connectors need to be clean and sound too. If in doubt about the condition of the battery, have a 'heavy discharge' test carried out by any motor battery supplier.
Remove, and take a close look at, the spark plugs. If their electrodes are visibly dirty, clean them very carefully using a brass-bristled wire brush. If it is clear that the electrodes have deteriorated, or if the age/mileage of the spark plugs is unknown, buy a complete new set. Incidentally, fitting a new set of plugs may help to improve fuel consumption and power output, as well as starting. When installing the plugs, apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the threads; this will help to ensure their easy removal in the future. If all is well so far, examine the high tension ignition leads; these need to be clean and in good condition. If you are unsure of their condition, or if they are more than a few years old, it would wise to install new ones.
Finally, scrutinise all underbonnet electrical leads/connections to make sure that there are no obviously weak aspects, and make sure that all fuel/vacuum pipes are in good condition (air leaks can play havoc with the fuel mixture).
If, after having carried out the above checks, the car is still reluctant to start from cold, take it to a reputable garage or service centre where more extensive diagnostic procedures should be able to quickly and positively identify the cause of the trouble.
RIGHT TO LEFT
Q: Please would you advise what is involved in changing a car from right hand drive to left hand drive, and is it likely to be expensive? Posted by: Andreia Goncalves
A: This is a major operation, but in most cases can be done using parts designed by the manufacturer for use in different parts of the world.
You do not say which make or model you are thinking of converting; some cars are easier than others to tackle. Regardless of the vehicle model you will need to have the following main components changed: Dashboard/facia, under-dash wiring, steering rack and possibly steering links, pedal mounting assembly, (usually) brake master cylinder and pipework, and possibly the battery mounting position and various brackets (etc.) will need to be altered.
Apart from the cost of the components, the labour charges will add up to a considerable sum if you are having to pay someone to do the work for you.
INFINITI POWER DRAIN
Q: My car is a 2003 Infiniti Coupe, in which the battery 'dies' after the vehicle has been sitting for about a day or so, and it then requires a 'jump' start. This has happened twice in the last two weeks. The first time, there was a ticking noise, but the second time, no sound was evident. I just replaced my battery last year, so I don't think that's it. Now, since the last time that the car 'died', my blinkers and alarm don't work. Any suggestions please? Posted by: Alison
A: Look at the simple things first. Have the battery checked out by a battery supplier or auto electrician, just to make sure that it has not failed prematurely. Next, check to make sure that all 'courtesy' lamps are extinguishing when they should. That includes all interior lights, the boot (trunk) lamp, and the one in the dash glove compartment. The drain from even a small bulb being illuminated over a day or two can sap enough power to prevent the car from starting.
Alternatively, if the lamps check out okay, there could be a constant but small drain on the battery from a faulty component such as the CD player, electric windows or air conditioning system. In this case you need to consult a dealer or an auto electrician to establish the precise amount of drain, and to test each circuit in turn. Since the blinkers and alarm now don't work, it sounds as if one or more fuses may also have blown, and/or there may be an electrical fault in these systems (possibly in addition to the fault causing the battery to go flat). Either way, the car does need to be checked as soon as possible by a reputable auto electrician/dealer, to ensure that the wiring and electrical components are safe, as well as to fix the 'flat battery' problem. A specialist should be able to pinpoint the problem very rapidly.
ERRATIC MICRA
Q: My 1993 Nissan Micra Automatic starts and ticks over but when I try to drive the car, the engine becomes erratic in its running. Any suggestions what to look for? Posted by: John Haggar
A: From the symptoms you describe it sounds as if the problem may be fuel-related, so check the possibility of dirt in, or faults with, the carburettor or fuel injection system. On fuel-injected Micras it is quite common for problems to arise with the mass meter. However, before condemning the fuel system, make sure that the ignition system is in good shape. In particular, check the distributor cap, rotor arm, high tension leads and spark plugs, making sure that all these components are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, have the car assessed by a tuning specialist, who should very quickly be able to identify the problem.
AUDI TRANSMISSION WOES
Q: My car is an Audi A4 with automatic transmission. The car will set off in first gear and then, at 2,000 rpm the car does not drive but the engine revs up to 4,000 rpm and then changes into second gear. What do you think? Posted by: Richard Norton
A: Sadly it sounds as if there may be a valve body problem within the transmission, in which case repairs are likely to be very expensive. However, the best bet is to take the car to an automatic transmission specialist for a test drive and precise assessment of the problem. They should be able to give you an accurate idea of the cost of repairs or a replacement gearbox.
INOPERATIVE FIESTA SPEEDO
Q: I drive a 2002 Ford Fiesta 1400, on which the speedometer has stopped working and the engine management system warning lamp has come on. Any ideas? Posted by: Chris
A: Start by checking the vehicle speed sensor on the gearbox. On some versions the speed input is derived from the ABS anti-lock brake system; investigate the three pin plug on the gearbox. Make sure that the connections are clean and that the plug is fully 'home'. If everything seems to be in order, it would be wise to take the car to a diagnostic specialist, who will be able to interrogate the electronic systems to establish precisely what is causing the trouble.
RATTLY MONDEO
Q: RATTLY MONDEO Posted by: Matt Spencer
A: The engine note will change at idle when the Exhaust Gas Recirculation ('EGR') system begins to cycle, also on this model injector calibration can affect noise output. Another possibility worth checking is that the timing chain may be the culprit.
SURGING NEON
Q: My 'W' registration Chrysler Neon 16v (with automatic transmission) runs okay until it reaches 4,000 rpm, then the engine starts 'surging'. Can you help please? Posted by: John Maughan
A: Without undertaking diagnostic fault-finding procedures it is difficult to be sure what the problem is, but... On this model the insulation on the crankshaft sensor cables at the rear of the cylinder block (above the driveshaft) can become brittle, with the result that the wires short together, giving the problem you describe. Take a look here first, and if all seems well in this department, our advice is to take the car for diagnostic fault-finding.
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